With its dramatic scenery, breathtaking natural beauty and tangible sense of tranquility and space, the Black Mountains in Wales lends itself to some fantastic walks, great food and cosy havens, as Jack Pitts discovers
It was dark by the time we got to the valleys of South Wales. We were searching for a cottage in the east of the Brecon Beacons, right in the heart of the Black Mountains. The sky was black, the road was black, everything around us, in fact, was black. We had run out of signal miles before and we were starting to lose hope of ever finding Mawr Cottage – a name we couldn’t even pronounce. The road (for want of a better word) we were following made a great ark on the side of the hill and it was so windy it felt like it had been coiled rather than laid. Suddenly, a sign flashed ahead of us and we pulled in. A couple of dogs trotted up to us and guided us in like tugboats, all around us were the unmistakable sounds of a bustling, working farm.
Glyn Greenow shook my hand and chuckled. “Oh you’ll never find it in the dark,” he said, “I’ll take you up.” We followed willingly as he roared up the road in his far more suitable 4×4, trying to keep his taillights in sight (and our stomachs in check) on the helter-skelter road. Abruptly, we turned off to a small cluster of houses, by the side a small sign read “Mawr Cottage”. We were high up, 850 feet, Glyn said, and the view in the morning, he assured us, would be fantastic.
And is was. A picture-perfect postcard panorama of rolling green fields dotted with sheep and lined with traditional dry stonewalls. This was what we’d come for – winter in Wales.
Furthermore, it turns out the Black Mountains are a haven of good food, beautiful landscapes and timeless walks, and don’t be put off going in winter – it just means less tourists and more snow, and the area’s allure and beauty is no less impressive just because the temperatures have dipped.
Below is a roundup of the best things to do with a few days, a long weekend or, if you’re lucky, a week in this really lovely part of Wales. Enjoy…
Top winter walks…
The walks on offer in the Black Mountains is some of the finest in the country, and it’s what draws thousands of Gortex-clad tourists to the area every year. In winter, the paths are quiet and the hills are sparkling white with snow. Give these walks a go for spectacular views and clean, fresh Welsh air.
Gentle
Walk the River Usk and the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal from Crickhowell (the centre of the Black Mountains). Follow the Usk north for two miles until you reach the Tower bridge, a 19th century construction built to link Glanusk Estate (the home of Green Man festival) with the main road. Cross the river and follow the path through the estate’s picturesque grounds. Turn right after the obvious coach house; pass through a gate and up the hill to the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal. Following this left (east) will lead you back to Crickhowell. Allow two and a half hours.
Average
Climb Table Mountain, the volcanic looking hill that looms over Crickhowell. Leave Crickhowell via Llanbedr Road, climbing gradually until the left hand turn for Wern Farm appears. Follow this until the farm, turning right and then left. The path then steepens dramatically (up those precipitous, volcanic sides) through fields until a gate leads through to a gentler path that winds to the top for excellent views. To descend take the path the spirals the opposite side of the hill until it meets the stonewall. Continue along this until a left turn appears by the river, this leads through a lovely forest back to Crickhowell. Allow three hours.
Serious
Waun Fach (small moor in Welsh) is the king of the Black Mountains, an 811m peak between Talgarth and Crickhowell. It is recommended to take a map and compass.
Park in Pengenfford at Dinas Farm or at the nearby pub on the A479. Walk along the lane that Dinas Farm is on until it becomes a track cover by trees. Continue until it opens up into a view of Y Grib ridge – your path to Waun Fach. Follow the ridge line upwards until a cairn and then keep climbing north east to reach the summit where you will be rewarded with fanatic views that stretch as far as Pen-y-fan (the highest mountain in South Wales) and the Wye valley. To descend follow the same path back. Allow five hours.
For rainy days…
If the weather turns and you’ve forgotten your raincoats have no fear, there are plenty of other options besides enjoying the great outdoors.
Crickhowell
This pretty little village is at the heart of the Black Mountains and offers all the trappings you need for a relaxing week in the hills (including an impressive number of pubs). It harks back to a time before Tescos, instead boasting handfuls of quirky independent shops including not one but two family butchers.
Hay-on-Wye
Book, books, books. Hay-on-Wye is a labyrinth of winding streets, cosy pubs and hundreds of second hand bookshops, some as niche as the “Murder and Mayhem” bookshop. Made famous for its annual book fare, it is a lovely place to while away an hour or two.
Big Pit
Just outside Abergavenny, this museum pays homage to South Wales’s mining heritage as is an excellent museum run by ex-miners who man the museum free of charge. A visit includes a tour of the mine itself, which lies about a hundred meters underground. For opening times and tour availability call 0300 111 2 333.
Cardiff
About an hour away, this blossoming capital city has everything you need for a great day out – from great shopping to interesting architecture, not to mention a massive castle.
Where to stay…
Staying in the Black Mountains is all about hillside cottages. Accommodation from holidaycottages.co.uk combines the remoteness of farm life with town luxury.
Hidden among a working farm are five cottages run by Gloria Greenow and her husband, Glyn. Mawr Cottage is a converted farm building with unrivalled views of the valley that stretch to the River Usk. It sleeps up to four people.
Ty Obrey is a beautiful building made of stone and glass and set on its own among open fields. It includes some of Wales’s comfiest beds, a range cooker and stunning views. It sleeps six people.
What to wear…
Staying warm in winter in Wales is serious business. A comfy base layer, a decent pair of boots and the right jacket can make the difference between a miserable trudge up the side of a seemingly endless incline and a carefree, enjoyable jaunt up a mountain trail.
Columbia’s 860 Turbo Down Jacket is a safe bet. It offers “Turbo Down technology” – a combination of synthetic insulation and real down.
Where to eat…
Nantyffin Cider Mill Inn
On the Brecon Road, just outside Crickhowell this lovely place is bursting with history, great food and, of course, some excellent cider. The 300-year old building hosts some of the area’s best meals, 70 per cent of which is sourced from within walking distance from local farms.
Coach and Horses
Based on Cwm Crawnon Road in Llangynidr, the Coach and Horses is situated beside the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal. This cosy pub is well worth the drive for its tasty, hearty food and friendly, laid-back atmosphere
The Bear
Crickhowell market place is a maze of homely rooms with excellent decor. Nestled within the heart of Crickhowell, this place is a great pitstop for a hot drink, wee pick-me-up or a spot of lunch. It also has rooms if you decide to make a night of it.
